Sofia Efstratiou from the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church of San Jose, California and Danny Staveris from the Ascension Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Oakland, California were the recipients of the 2000 FDF Scholarship to Greece . They attended the Agios Germanos Seminar in Greece which is hosted by Yiani & Ira Constantinou.

Videos from their trip are available (Video List) to FDF directors for the cost of a blank video tape and postage; the videos are also for sale to the general public. For a copy of the videos and for FDF directors who would like to apply for the 2001 FDF Scholarship to Greece, please contact Charlie Kyriacou ChKyriacou@aol.com

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THE 2000 DIRECTORS SCHOLARSHIP TO GREECE

A Journey Through Agios Germanos

By: Sofia Efstratiou and Danny Staveris

Danny, Sofia & friend
Danny Staveris, Sofia Esfstratiou & friend

There are simply not enough words to begin to describe the most beautiful journey that both Danny and myself embarked on this past summer as the 2000 Folk Dance Festival scholarship recipients. We had the opportunity to partake in the Prespes 2000 dance seminar held in Agios Germanos. Through this article we would like to take you on this beautiful journey through Agios Germanos, by sharing our memories, stories and experiences.

Agios Germanos is a small village 60 kilometers out side of Florina in the Macedonia region. This part of Florina holds the greatest interest for visitors, whether Greek or foreign, is its two lakes, which form the borders of Greece with Albania and Yugoslavia. These lakes, Mikri and Megali Prespa are situated 850 meters above sea level and are separated by a narrow strip of land. The shores of the smaller lake are filled with reeds that every year provides shelter for many kinds of birds. Prespes is also a natural park, protected for its rare varieties of flowers. Looking as though it is floating in the middle of the lake is the small island known as Agios Achilios. At Agios Achilios visitors can find: ancient Byzantine ruins, and rocky coast harbors caves, which where once used as shrines, whose walls are decorated with religious paintings. On the shores of Megali Prespa, which may be either steep and rocky or flat and lush, there is a delightful little village called Psarades, which is very reminiscent of an Aegean hamlet with its characteristic architecture. In the Florinian Mountains Agios Germanos is situated where the Byzantine church dedicated to St. Germanos and its excellent frescoes can be found. Also, one of the best taverna serving freshly caught fish from the lakes.

Our bus trip from Thessaloniki to Florina was our fist glimpse at the beauty of this part of Greece. Driving through the forests, we were immersed with the beautiful colors of the region: different shades of greens, deep earth tones, light blue sky and the bright yellow sunlight, created the most magnificent and mesmerizing sight. We arrived in Florina in the late afternoon where Yiannis Konstantinou was waiting for us at the "KTEL" (local bus station). We greeted each other and shortly after we went to a local taverna in the mountains of Florina where we enjoyed good conversation and a beautiful view of the city. At around six o¹clock we went to Yiannis Konstantinou patriko house where we meet Yianni¹s family, his wife Ira, lovely daughter Xenia, his mother and of course Yianni¹s father; the famous and well known Simos Konstantinou. While at the home, we also meet other participants of the seminar and three of Yianni¹s dancers that would contribute their time and help to the seminar. Everyone was very hospitable and made us fell right at home.

We left Florina and arrived in Agios Germanos at around 9:00pm. By that time, it was too late to see the actual beauty of the village. We all got situated and shortly after decided to go eat and the local taverna in the platia. It was at this "taverna" where we would have some of the best times during our two-week stay. After dinner we all went over to the local "baraki" "Biro" for a drink and some dancing. At "Biro" we meet some very friendly locals about our age and had a very good time. It was nights like these, which combined great company; good conversation and a wonderful ambiance that made us fall in love with the Agios Germanos from day one. By the end of the night we had the realization, that what we would experience in the next two weeks would be something that we have never experienced before. This seminar would not only broaden our scope on Greek dancing but would also give us the opportunity of building some great new friendship, and unforgettable memories.

The seminar officially started the next morning with the first lesson at 10:00am. At 12:30 we breaked for lunch and relaxation. During this break we were either at the cafeteria near the lake enjoying a frappe and chatting with the instructors, playing cards with friends or taking a afternoon nap. Class resumed again at 5:00pm and went on till about 8:00pm. The workshops were very intense and the material covered extensive. The regions covered were dances from Macedonia, which extended from Florina to Serres. Also: Crete, Anatoliki Roumelia, Pontos, Ionian Islands, Asia Minor, Capadokia, Epirus, Thessalia, Sarakatsanika, Vlahika and Arvanitika. The instructors were all very talented human beings that really inspired us in their own unique ways. Their love, passion and knowledge of Greek dancing in the specific region they taught became the platform for our note taking and research throughout the seminar. One of the many personality traits that the instructor¹s shared in common was there humbleness towards being instructors. During conversations with instructors, they made clear to though they may teach a specific region, they are only one half the picture. In order for us to see the entire picture, we must watch and learn from another group of instructors. This group of instructors can be found dancing at local paniyiria, wedding or "glendia"; they are the locals of a village. "These people have that special spirit, feeling and emotion that project from within, unites dancer and dance".

One specific instructor that cannot go without being mentioned is Yiannis Konstantinou. Yianni is the individual responsible for organizing the Prespes seminar year after year. He is by far the most talented individual in the Western Macedonia region. His style, his movement, but most importantly his love for Greek dancing is immeasurable. When Yianni dances, he instantaneously becomes the highlight of the night. The passion he exhibits as he dances to the sounds of the Florinan highlands fills the room with happiness, excitement and creates a most magical ambiance. On many occasions, we had the pleasure of chatting with him where he shared with us a most intriguing insight into Greek dancing. In one of our meeting, we conversed about the meaning of Greek dancing. The conversations focus was around three words: soul, body, and steps, which as he puts it make up the essence of Greek Dancing. "Greek dancing is first your psihi (soul), then your soma (body) and lastly your vimata (steps)" Yianni went on to explain that we should study ones "efhos" that projects from within his soul as he dances to the music. Then, watch and learn the way his body moves with the music as the rhythm plays and lastly, focus on the way his feet dance to the beat of the song. "If ones soul, body and steps join together, then the "epitome" of dancing is instantaneously reached." "It is this epitome that will continue to brighten the light of Greek Dancing forever". It was conversations with Yianni that inspired us as directors, dancers, but most importantly as individuals.

Courtyard Dance class

Throughout the seminar in class or not, we found ourselves dancing. It was a literally a non-stop "glendi". Every night after dinner, we were either at "paniyiria"(festivals) or at the local "taverna" dancing till the morning hours of dawn. One of the many night that will remain instilled in our memory forever, was the evening we embarked on a magical journey the Agios Achilios, the little island within the Prespa Lake. It was a cloudy warm summer night with light sprinkles coming down from the sky, as we went across the lake on little rowing boats. The waters were so calm and the colors in the sky were a deep orange from the sunset and dark gray from the sprinkling clouds. These two elements created a spectacular sight and feeling. Walking through Agios Achilios we were immersed with history, which lies within the island; the church of Agios Achilios and his tomb, covered with a relief tombstone that is preserved in the church. Also, the beautiful Byzantine ruins and shrines. Our final destination in Agios Achilios was at the local "psaro (fish) taverna" where we enjoyed a delicious dinner. The highlight of the night was after dinner, when the lights turned off, the doors opened wide and the sounds of " Ta Halkina" march in like a band procession, as the entire taverna lights up like a firecracker. It was a night filed with excitement and happiness as we danced and sung the night away.

There are so many more memories to share: hiking and picnicking through the mountains of the Agios Germanos, dancing and singing in the highlands to the live sounds of the gaida, swimming in the crystal clean river that ran through these mountains, laughing, talking and enjoying the simplicity of life. During our time spent in the highlands of Agios Germanos, we felt as if we were living the life our parents and grandparents lived many years ago in Greece. A life of getting together with family and friends: dancing, singing, laughing and enjoying the simplicity that life had to offer. A truly simple life that seems so foreign these days.

Our last night in Agios Germanos we had the pleasure of having in our company a very popular group of musicians for Yianni Konstantinou¹s village of Alona. Also, Mihalis Kaliontzidis, one of the best Pontic lyre players in Greece. We danced at the "taverna" till the late hours of the night and continued the "glendi" at the local "baraki"across the way. By the end of the night, which by then was the early morning hours, the entire "parea" gathered in a circle in the middle of the bar where we danced and sung to the live music of a temberleki as the sun began to rise.

Prespes 2000 was by far one of the most rewarding experiences of our lives. As mentioned in the beginning of this article, words cannot fully describe the complete picture of our journey. The friends we meet, the places we visited, the individual we conversed with, and the many things we learned have created some of the most unforgettable memories. During the seminar, we did not only grasp a better knowledge of Greek dances throughout our country, but most importantly, we were touched by a group of gifted angels of our heritage who inspired and taught us the most valuable lesson of all, that those who dance, sing and teach create the true joy of life.

We would like to thank FDF and more specifically George Nichols for giving us the opportunity and honor to partake in such a beautiful and inspiring seminar. It was one of the best seminars we have attended in our many years of teaching. A great deal of appreciation goes out to Yiannis Konstantinou and his wife Ira Konstantinou for being able to put together such a successful and beautiful experience for us. They truly deserve a standing ovation for their passion of our "paradosi", and their eternal struggle to preserve a very important piece of it. It is people like Yianni and Ira who help that flame of Greek dancing alive and burning.