"KYRENIA II" IN NAXOS

Warm welcome by the people of Naxos

NAXOS, September 1986

On Friday evening, 12 September, a crowd of people from all the villages of Naxos crowded on the Island's coast to welcome the ancient trading ship that was going to enter our port at 8.30 p.m.
All the young men and women from the villages and the town had dressed up in local costume and had come, accompanied by musicians with violins and bagpipes, to welcome the ship and celebrate its arrival with the people. The Island's square had been illuminated with suitable lighting (colour lights) and the old pier was empty, whitewashed and spotless because the ship would drop anchor there.
However, time was passing and KYRENIA had not arrived. Aeolus had shut his windbags and prevented its journey; the ship was...sailing only with its two oars. But the most beautiful night and the great desire of the people to see the ancient ship kept them on the shore until midnight when it came in slowly with its big white sail open.
All the flag-decked vessels that were in the harbour came out to welcome it with burning torches. Suddenly the lights on the seafront went out and the neón signs on the shops ceased to shine. At the same time fires were lit on the two promenades on the island of Bacchus, at the Palaves. Two navy ships, "Evgenios Evgenides" and "Chelidon" were accompanying KYRENIA II. It dropped anchor at the small pier to the warm applause of all the people standing on the seafront. The authorities came out to welcome the crew while in the square there were tables set with rich food and wine that were offered to the guests and the people of the Island. The people ate and drank joyfully, partaking in a national feast which, according to the programme constitutes "a challenge to show our History, our national roots, our civilization throughout the ages, our habits and customs and, also, the relations that existed among the islands and with Cyprus, the development of trade and the excellent nautical knowledge of people in ancient times". Late on Friday nightin the early hours of Saturday morning - celebrations came to an end.
On Saturday morning the guests went sightseeing to visit the Island's historical monuments (Museum, Castle, etc.) and at noon they had lunch at the garden of Melana, where Kouros reposes. Naxian clay pots were offered to the guests.
On Saturday evening there was a representation of libations on the little island of Bacchus, at the Palaces. Very early people of every age, male and female, went up to the Palaces to take their seats. By 9 o'clock all the area on the isle was crowded with people.
At 9.30 the representation of libations began with a chorus consisting of men dressed in ancient costume, crowned with vine-twigs, holding on their shoulders baskets with canisters, earthen pots, offerings for the sacrifice, all holding clubs. A member of the chorus was carrying a live ram surrounded by vine-twigs. He started climbing up in a solemn manner and with religious piety towards the temple of Apollo and stood in front of the gigantic gate of the Temple. The whole place was illuminated with torches. The Authorities had taken positions on the east side of the gate. A cameraman and crew from Cyprus television were ready to film the occasion.
In the dead silence the priest who was going to perform the sacrifice came through the portal, dressed in a white tunic and crowned with vine-twigs himself too. He climbed up to the altar. A member of the chorus approached him and offered him an amphora and a pot (a pitcher). The man accompanying him poured wine and water into the pot held by the priest, who offered libations, pouring the liquid on various places of the altar. Then he sprinkled the altar and the crowd with the same liquid. He raised his hands up to the sky and the chorus did likewise. Then he recited the following thanksgiving - supplication, which was repeated, sentence by sentence, by the chorus:
"Bacchus, born from this earth, triumphant, casting unsparingly pleasure in body and mind, a lasting refuge of the people, earthly, comforting, having moored at a tranquil port this sturdy ship of our beloved Cyprus, calm the sea all the way to Kyrenia. In the past, too, we slayed well-fed rams for you and now we honour your drink. "
Then, turning to the Portal and gazing towards De- los, he recited the second thanks giving - supplication to the god Apollo:
"Apollo, lover of the muses, handsome noble, master of meditation and sensibility, there is no youth or maiden who has not coveted your generous gifts in word and sound. Your altar has never been left without incense and prime things are offered to you in virgins' hands, as proof of your power. As a token of our faith we have built a temple, a precious jewel, in your honour. May you lead the children of our much-desired, tormented, blood-stained and foam-drenched Cyprus, as guide and sage, across the sea; sweet-smelling fumes from the delectable ram will rise for you, as it is fit."
After the prayer the priest slayed the ram with his knife as an offering to the god.
Outside, on the steps, the ancient game of the skinbag took place. Youths tried to stand on an inflated goat's bladder; whoever managed to do so was the winner and was awarded a prize. This game used to be played during the vine-harvest and Bacchic celebrations.
Finally, merchandise - oil and wine - was carried on the ship, as symbolic goods that Naxos has always produced in abundance.
Those were unforgettable, splendid nights, full of national fervour and pride, nights that were far from political or other expediency which, instead of uniting divide the people and prevent them from feeling the magnificence of their heritage and the glory of their land. On 88 Sunday morning KYRENIA II with its escorting ships was given a send- off by all the vessels that were in port, sailing on its long journey from the Dodecanese to Paphos - Cyprus, and not to Greek Kyrenia, where it would not be allowed to anchor by the Turks who occupy it.
"Vaxian Future" newspaper,Athens, September 1986, issue no. 514
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