.
History
Chalki or Chalce
Kastelorizo or Megisti
Lipsoi or Leipsoi
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CHALCHE
Stravon calls this area "Chalchia" because of the copper mines it possessed. Its first inhabitants were the mythic Titans, who were succeeded by the Pelasgians. Ruins from the Pelasgian walls can be found in the Acropolis of Chalche. The area was populated by the Karian people and later, by the Dorians. In ancient times, the island was divided into thirty municipalities (ktoines). The most important among these were Chalche, two kilometres West of the Acropolis, and Phoenicia, with its seaport, Pontamos. There were three temples, ruins of which have survived today and bear witness to the worship of the god Apollo Helios. In the Dodecanese, this god took the form of the Archangel Michael.
Because the island was a municipality of Rhodes, it followed the same course of history as Rhodes. In 315 B.C., the people of Chalche defended the walls of Rhodes during the siege of Dimitrios the Besieger. In 79 B.C. the island, together with Rhodes yielded to the Romans. During the Byzantine Era, it belonged to the Thema, the region of the islanders. In the 7th century, it became the victim of Arab brutality until 825, when Nikiforos Fokas released the Dodecanese from this cruel yoke. After the abolition of the Byzantine State by the Crusaders, Chalche passed over to the Venetians and the Genoans until 1309, when the Johanite Knights conquered the island, established Rhodes as their capital, and fortified all the other islands as well. They built the fortress of Alimia and constructed their own stronghold over the ancient Pelasgic ruins. In 1523, the island was passed over to the Turks who granted them several privileges, so that they would be administred by the Senate, which dealt with private affairs and was responsible for the collection of the 12,000 "aspra" tax (the Byzantine and subsequently, Turkish currency). The period from 1835 to 1912 is characterized by the struggle of the islanders to protect their privileges from abuse by the administration. The ascent of the New Turks in 1909 resulted in the massive immigration of the inhabitants of the Dodecanese. Chalche was nearly left desolate. The New Turks not only abolished every kind of liberty but they also imposed obligatory military service and the obligatory teaching of the Turkish language at schools.
On April 22, 1912, during the Turkish-Italian War in Tripolitida, the Italians landed on the islands in the role of liberators and stayed there until 1945, during which time they imposed cruel methods to try to make the population more Italian oriented.
Alexander Diakos was a great personality of the Second World War. His statue lies in Liberty Square in Rhodes. Chalche joined the Greek State on March 7, 1948 together with the other Dodecanese islands. The islanders of Chalche were experts in navigation from the ancient years and thus, became effective sailors. In particular, their main occupation was collecting sponges. At round 1935, they possessed a fleet of 50 fishing-boats which brought wealth to the island.
CHALCHE OR NIMBORIO
Built amphitheatrically around the port, with uniform two-and three-story tile-roofed, stone houses, Chalche gives the impression of an aristocratic town. It has been characterized as a traditional settlement and, as a result, became an honorary Municipality. It has 300 inhabitants out of the 4,000 it once had. Their main occupation is fishing, cattle-breeding and, most recently, tourism, a constantly growing industry. The most beautiful monuments of Chalche are the clock tower in front of the Town Hall, which can be seen from a distance, and the Church of Saint-Nichlas with its tall bell-tower. On the left side of the settlement, the old oil-press has been turned into a traditional guest house. In the surrounding area, wind mills stand idly by waiting to be looked after. Today, many houses are being restored and the island is experiencing new growth. Chalche was founded in approximately 1850-70 by the inhabitants of the Pano Horio.
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MEGISTI (KASTELLORIZO ISLAND)
The island's history started from Palaiokastro, where many tools from the Neolithic Age (14,000 - 9,000 B.C.)were found. Close to Palaiokastro, one can see the relics of the Cyclopean Walls, which date from the period of the occupation of Pelasgians in this region. The chiselled tombs date from the Minoan Period, whereas the gold chaplet, a masterpiece found in a sarcophagus, and which is currently at the Archaeological Museum of Athens, reminds one of the Myceneans. Later on, the island was inhabited by the Dorians. During the following years, the area flourished, and as a result, many colonies were founded on the coast of Asia Minor. The most important were Andifellos, directly opposite the actual town of Megisti, Myra and Finikas. The Hellenistic inscriptions confirm the worship of Lykios Apollo, Propyleos Hermes and Dioskouri, all gods considered to be protectors of the sailors. The temple of Lykios Apollo in Patara is still functionning today as the Church of Saint Nichlas. Ten of its impressive Corinthian columns were transferred to the Church of Saints Constantine and Helen in Megisti.
The island participated in the first Athenian Coalition and fought with the Athenians against the Persians. During this period, Megisti was temporarily separated from Rhodes but it soon resumed its course of history. In 79 B.C., it became subjugated to the regional island district. After the abolition of the Byzantine State by the Crusaders, the island passed over to the Venetians and the Genoans and then, to the Johannite Knights. The latter made their presence evident by building their own castle on top of the ancient castle in the harbour. The original was built by Sosiklis Nikagoras, the sub-prefect from Rhodes. The second castle was stronger and more suitable for the needs of the war. From this period on, Megisti lost its ancient name (it was named after its founder Megisteas), and was named Kastello Rosso, after the red rocks of the castle. Despite its strong fortifications, in 1523 it was invaded by the Turks after the Johannite Knights agreed to depart for Malta.
Megisti, as well as the other small Dodecanese islands, retained its privileges only by paying taxes. In 1659, it was temporarily invaded by the Venetians during the Venetian-Turkish War (1645-1669), who destroyed its fortifications. Later, in 1788, the castle was seriously destroyed when Lambros Katsonis, with the cruiser "Athena of Arktos" and other ships, equipped with twenty canons, attacked the area during the night and took the Turks by surprise. In a state of panic, the latter raised a white flag and surrendered whatever was left of the fortress. Those who survived, left in safety for Asia Minor, with the intervention of the Bishop. The island was set free. As for the 17th century, its merchant fleet travelled to Syria, Egypt and Italy carrying domestic agricultural products (wine and olive oil) and wood from Asia Minor. The economy flourished. When the Greek Revolution started, the island had a significant number of ships which were put at the disposal of the fight against the Turks. Women and children left for the islands of Karpathos, Kasos and Amorgos for greater safety.
Despite this, the London Protocol (1830), according to the decision taken by the Great Powers, rendered the Dodecanese back to the Turks in exchange for the island Euboea. Life continued not only with greater difficulties but with more determination as well. Sponge-collecting became one of the most important activities of the island. In 1866, it possessed 80 ships, 640 divers and assistants. Schools, such as the famous Santrapia School (for boys and girls) were founded and churches, such as the Church of Saints Constantine and Helen, Saint George Loukas, Saint George Pigadiotis, were built. The population reached 12,000 - 14,000 inhabitants. The administration was run by the Greeks. There was only one Turkish governor, with a small number of personnel who did not resist when the inhabitants broke out in revolt in 1913. When the islanders saw that the Greek fleet was liberating the islands of the Aegean Sea, they arose and declared their independence, assisted by chieftain Manolis Daskalakis and his soldiers from Crete, who arrived at the islands with their ship "Roumeli". On August 1st, 1914, the Greek government named Vassilis Tzavelas administrative councillor of the island. The islanders did not enjoy this new status because on December 28, 1915, during the First World War, the French invaded the island to use it as a naval base. On March 2nd, 1920, they passed it over to the Italians. The islanders reacted eagerly but the Italian occupation lasted until the end of the Second World War (1945). During this period, the population was considerably reduced because of a wave of immigration towards free Greece, Australia and Egypt. Those who stayed behind experienced tragic times. The island was bombed twice: in 1941 by the Italians and in 1943, by the Germans, who were aiming against the English. The results of these bombings are evident today. In areas where many grande houses stood and pretty flowers blossomed, now wild fig trees have grown. The entire hill that castle stood on is full of ruins. The inhabitants left the area in fear of renewed bombing. They arrived as refugees via Cyprus and Turkey, to the Sahara, in Palestine, where 14,000 people from Samos and Dodecanese already were and lived in tents for two years. However, during their return trip, in October, 1945, the Austrian ship which carried them, caught fire and 35 people died. The final reunion with Greece took place on March 7th, 1948.
The only residential area of the island embraces the harbour with two and three-stroy aristocratic homes stretching from the fields and extending to behind the Niftis. The islanders are friendly and offer warm hospitality. Many yachts and fishing boats moor in front of the narrow jetty lined with the restaurants and tavernas. A small pine-tree forest is located behind the residential area. There are 250 permanent residents on the island and another 3,000 with roots in the area who currently live in Australia and Egypt.
MONUMENTS
THE CASTLE AT THE HARBOUR, on the bombarded hill, was built by the Johannite Knights on top of relics of the ancient castle in the 14th century. The island was named after the red rock (Castello-Rosso) which has been called Megisti until that time. In 1788, Lambros Katsonis destroyed the castle during a surprise attack against the Turks and forced them to leave, thus setting the island free. Today, we can see remains of the exterior wall and of the three towers. Next to thisare the ruins of the Turkish baths and a wind mill which was restored by the Ministry of Culture in 1984.
THE TEMPLE-SHAPED TOMB (end of the 5th century to beginning of 4th century B.C.) is carved from the rock and is situated under the fortress. It can be seen from the entrance to the harbour, 10-15 meters in height; it is in excellent condition, with a Dorian facade and rectangular chamber with four places (shelves) for the dead. Similar but subsequent tombs have been found in the coast of Asia Minor, mainly in Lykia. For this reason, this tomb is called "Lykios".
THE CHURCH OF SAINTS CONSTANTINE AND HELEN (1835) - the Cathedral - has many Gothic characteristics. According to tradition, Saint Helen had built a small church at the same location, when she was caught in a storm on her way to the Holy Land. The church was built over am old Christian basilica. Its roof is supported by twelve monolithic granite pillars which were transferred on rafts from the Temple of Apollo at Patara of Lykia, in Asia Minor. The Temple of Apollo in Patara has been transformed into the church of Saint Nicholas, where the Greek population from Asia Minor, Greece and other foreign countries is gathers each year on December 6. The Patriarch of Constantinople celebrates the mass. To the left and right, we can see the old Boys' School and Girls' School, a donation of the benefactor, Santrapis, as well as the Church of Saint George. The location is called "Chorafia" (Fields). You can visit many other churches as well as the bust of the Lady Ro, Despina Achladioti.
THE CHURCHES OF SAINTS DIMITRIOS AND NICHOLAS are located West of the castle ruins in the harbour.
PALAIOKASTRO, at 2 km. to the south-west, is the most important monument of the island because it has remained unchanged since the Byzantine yeas. It went untorched. Even the Johannite Knights did not managed to change it. The island life began here. Many Neolithic tools were found, reservoirs, ancient and Byzantine buildings were discovered. Two churches are built next to each other in the area surrounding the castle: the Church of the Virgin Mary of the Castle and that of Saint Stephan. Between them lies a pebble floor constructed in 1858. On the opposite hill, two fenced-in churches can be found: the Church of Saint Panteleimon and higher still, the small Church of Saint George the Poor.
THE CYCLOPEAN WALLS are built in this area, at the location of "Limenari".
THE ANCIENT TOMBS are situated at "Avlonia", high up on the mountain, south-east of the harbour.
SAINT GEORGE OF THE MOUNTAIN. You can climb the steps known as kondilakia from the field and after a long and tiring route, reach a plateau. You follow the small path until you arrive at the monastery of Saint George surrounded by huge natural paving-stones, which you can't miss. This monastery is called "Mountain Church" to distinguish itself from the "Field Church" and the "Church of the Well" (at the beach). In the monastery, you can see the catacomb of Saint Charalambos. The monastery was built by the Architect Mastrogiorgis from Kastellorizo island and was restored in 1779. Today, it is also in need of restoration.
FOKIALI, THE BLUE CAVE is probably the most beautiful cave in the Mediterranean. The atmosphere is dreamlike, the colours cover the entire spectrum of blue azure, the stalactites and stalagmites are impressive. The boat enters the cave while the visitors bend over. The best time to visit the cave is early in the morning because of the lighting. The island has many smaller caves, the most important of which is the Cave Kolones.
ACHERES are ten water reservoirs built during the Turkish occupation to collect the rain waters underneath Palaiokastro The word has an ancient Greek origin and means "stagnant water" (Acheron, Acheroussia).
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LEIPSI
Leipsi or Leipso or Leipsai followed the course of history of the other Dodecanese Islands. It was inhabited by Kares in the 14th century B.C., followed by the Dorians in 1200 B.C. and later, by Ions who probably came from Militos in Asia Minor, a colony of Attika. Pots and potsherds were found from the Mycenean (1600-1100 B.C.) and the Geometric periods (1100-800 B.C.). The marble Ionian capital which was found in the area of Saint John and dates from the 4th century B.C., the oil lamps of the first Hellenistic period (3rd century B.C.) and the tombs and marble inscribed columns confirm the continuously developing habitation, whose center was the fortified tower of the Castle, which dominates the whole area. Archaeological findings are built into the wall of churches and homes. Remains of houses exist even from pre-Christian times. The foundations of a big temple have been found at the Church of the Virgin Mary of Kousselio. It seems that an ancient temple lay at the same spot. We do not have any historical data until 730 A.D., when the islands of Lipsi, which are now part of the Byzantine Empire, acquired strategic importance. But the islands were devastated by the conflicts between the Byzantines and the Arabs especially, the invasions of the latter. In the 11th century (1088), this island together with the island of Patmos, was transferred to Ossios Christodoulos by the golden bull of Alexios Komninos the First. The island remained in the possession of the Monastery of Patmos for 556 years, during which time it exploited its land for farming and grazing. During this period, many monasteries and hermitages were founded, such as the Kimissi at Romani in the West (1500), Kato Panagia, in the West (Church of the Annunciation, 1770), Panagia of Haros (1600).
In 1522, the island yielded to the Turks who limited themselves to collecting taxes, making predatory raids, grabbing animals and killing monks but avoided inhabitation. The populated area one can see today was founded in 1669 by a person from Crete named Lios (Elias) when Crete passed from the Venetian Occupation to the Turkish one. During this period, many people abandoned their island and were spread throughout the Dodecanese and other islands. Lios used a cave above the Lendou area for his first home and later on, built his house, the first one on the hill, where the post office is today. During the Greek Revolution of 1821, Lipsi played an important part in the War of Independence offering shelter to the rebels and helping them get prepared for War. They also helped Theophilos Pankostas from the island of Patmos, Patriarch of Alexandria and many captains from the islands of Hydra, Spetses and Psara. Two letters of great historical significance have been found: they were written by Andreas Miaoulis in Leipsi on August 21st and 23rd, 1824, full of enthusiasm and rage against the enemy, thus motivating and encouraging the Admiral of Psara who was in Patmos with his fleet. Miaoulis left Leipsi and many Greeks left other locations united against the Turks for the big naval battle of Gerontas, at the coast of Asia Minor, where the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets were forced to retreat on August 29, 1824.
For a few years, Leipsi managed to maintain its independence, but the Settlement of Constantinople, in July 9, 1932, left the Dodecanese as well as many other regions, outside the boundaries of Greece. The Turkish presence became more noticeable when a six-man guard belonging to the Administration of Leros island, came to the island. The islanders however, continued to vote for their own elders because the Turks did not know the language. Voting was held in the open. Voters used to gather in the main square, the candidates stood on the corners and lifted their walking canes. This was a signal for the voters to go to the candidate of their choice.
During the First Balkan War, in 1912, the Italian troops liberated the Dodecanese Islands. But the islanders soon discovered that the new conquerors expected greater obedience than before. Starting with the schools, the Italians imposed their own language and religion. In March, 1948, the island was united to Greece after the defeat of Italy in the Second World War. After the ravage of Asia Minor, in 1922, and the uprooting of the Greek population, many refugees settled in Leipsi.
The only populated region of Leipsi is situated on the hill where Lios from Crete built his first home. It is extended towards the safe harbour. At the top, next to the square where lies the Museum and the Town Hall, one can see the magnificent white Church of Saint John Theologos, with its blue dome and two bell-towers. The houses are painted white with a blue outline around the doors and windows. This habit dates from the Italian occupation, when the islanders used to paint their homes with the colours of the Greek flag. The school is another nice building, built by the hard work of the islanders and their immigrant children. The people live off of fishing, cattle-breeding and agriculture. The region is well known for its wine. In the past, the production reached 300 tons and during the Italian occupation, it was sent to the Vatican for Holy Communion. Today, the Municipality, in collaboration with the Athens School of Agronomy, is trying to replant the area with plants more resistant to dry climates. In the summer, many people visit Leipsi for its clean beaches, fresh fish, calm landscape and hospitality